Runway Page 2
We get the Led out at least once a week, so when we learned that the ornamental prints that glided across Anna Sui’s runway were inspired by our beloved Jimmy Page’s hoard of tapestries, we were extra enthused about this season’s offerings. Paige collected the pieces from Pre-Raphaelite deity Edward Burne-Jones, and his collection was on display at Tate’s Pre-Raph retrospective earlier this year. Sui went, saw, and just like that, her vision for spring was born.
Serge Gainsbourg’s breathless purrs have never ceased to strike our fancy, especially now that French singer’s “Cardo Culte,” has served as the spark for one of our favorite collections from J. Mendel to date. Designer Giles Mendel cites the nuanced strains as helping him re-imagine Gainsbourg’s muse: an ultra-refined New York sophisticate, elevating ingénue silhouettes to the very height of elegance — which we read as a blithely chic Chloë Sevigny-type sporting his pure luxe designs from day-to-night, or Café Gitane to Le Baron.
We imagine that most were puzzled by Jenny Packham’s show vow to a ”70s take on austere Edwardian attire,” but it made perfect sense to us. After all, as Anglophiles our enthusiasm for blue blood Brits mirrors even that of our keenness to Bianca Jagger in Studio 54′s heyday. But for those less privy to dichotomies, the designer pegged the 1975 Australian cult flick Picnic at Hanging Rock as the catalyst for this season.
Fresh off of Tory Burch’s Spring 2014 show, we’re mourning the loss of summer and its subsequent garden parties. Inspired by the French Riviera in the ’60s, the designer gave us botanical vibes aplenty, and had us wishing we could while away the hours in the collection’s jeweled Queen Anne’s lace print organza dress, or perhaps one of the beaded appliqué burlap dresses.
Between all the lining up for always-late runways shows, the giant elbows that mess up your photos, and the milling around the Lincoln Centre sampling different flavors of kefir-based ice creams, New York Fashion Week can get a bit tedious. So MADE’s group presentation at Milk Studios on Saturday night was a real breath of fresh air.
The worst part about Fashion Week isn’t the running in heels, the not being able to load your invitation barcode or the seat-mate who encroaches on your space and sticks his head into all your Instagram shots. No, it’s the waiting.
Rethink that piece you thought you couldn’t wear again until 2025.
It’s incredible the power a single color can have. That’s what we learned last night at the Helmut Lang Spring 2014 runway show.
Anyone with a fear of clowns knows circuses aren’t all fairy floss and Rainbow Brite poodles. Zimmermann also delved into the darker side of performance for their New York Fashion Week debut, which was delivered at Lincoln Centre this morning.
You’d think anyone with a working knowledge of pop culture would be chuffed to see just about any celebrity in the wild — even Glee stars other people have to ID for us — but our heart rates stayed abnormally low at this afternoon’s Tadashi Shoji Spring 2014 show. That is, until Caroline Brasch Nielsen floated down the runway with cheekbones you could probably see from space, much less section H.
Milan Fashion Week still has little idea what it’s going to look once the Italian Chamber of Fashion get done with this makeover. At the speed things are going, that could be a while off yet. But already things are looking a bit brighter. Last week we learned that Giorgio Armani chose rising (womenswear!) star Stella Jean to show at his Armani Teatro showspace. And today Costume National have announced that after 20 years of showing in Paris, they’re coming home this season.
It’s not every day that a womenswear name gets chosen to present at the traditional show space of Giorgio Armani. Actually it’s never, if we’re gonna get specific, but that’s about to change this upcoming Milan Fashion Week. Armani himself has asked fellow Italian designer Stella Jean to become the first women’s label to show her spring/summer 2014 collection at the Armani Teatro.
We could be bitter that Ralph Lauren is pledging to restore a French institution instead of one here in his mother country, but when you look further into the history of the École National Supérieure des Beaux-Arts, one of Paris’ most famous art schools, it starts to make more sense. What we are wondering about is why one of the haute couture houses didn’t seize the opportunity to save the struggling institution. Leave it to the Americans, ay?
Is it just us, or are these models… Happy? Though we’d be smiling too if it were our limbs being given a physical preview of Nanette Lepore’s porcelain printed pool pants. FYI this is a term we just made up, because though we’re seeing covetable swimsuits in every nook of the internet these days, there’s been a serious shortage of poolside trouserwear.
For Spring 2014 Michael Kors is waging war on your guy’s skinny jeans, debuting a Dickens-luxe range of sleeveless blazers, suede trenches, hemp bags, and wide-legged, pajama-style trousers complete with rope-inspired belt
Just ’cause there’s crystal-dusted crinoline all over our screens doesn’t mean we can’t focus on the details. Beyond Haute Couture’s silk tulle Art Nouveau curtains are some accessories demanding some serious attention of their own, and this isn’t the season to laud modesty.
The Paris Haute Couture shows wrapped up in a graceful flurry of bejeweled organza and skirt-pants hybrids on Friday, giving our minds and eyes the long weekend to recover. This season designers all interpreted the word “couture” rather differently: some eschewed the bedazzling process entirely, others like Raf Simons at Dior turned the spotlight on couture silhouettes, and some opted for full-on theatrics.
The fashion crowd is never fully dressed without their accessories. For every wow-worthy outfit moment on the streets of Couture Fashion Week, there was a statement-making pair of heels, jewels, or an enviable bag behind it. The proof is all right here — from a cheeky Charlotte Olympia clutch to a bold pair of lace-up heels, the accessories were as distinct as the showgoers. Just click through for a closer look at the style set’s coolest supporting details.
Check out these photos from the “Africa to Rome” runway show, which aims to fight poverty with fashion.
Whether you’ve seen it firsthand or just going by word of mouth, you know that the backstage of a fashion show can be as wild as the Serengeti. This said, fashion films have a way of making all the craziness go away, and allowing only perfection to shine through, which is definitely the case in NOWNESS’ behind-the-scenes video of the Fall 2013 Tory Burch show.