Lady Gaga’s Family Restaurant Slammed By Food Critic
With Lady Gaga‘s legion of loyal Little Monsters, one would imagine that anything she touched would automatically turn to gold. Not so with her family’s new restaurant, which opened on Manhattan’s Upper West Side last night to a scathing review in this morning’s New York Post.
Steve Cuozzo, The Post’s restaurant critic, stopped in for dinner at Joanne’s during Wednesday’s opening night — a somewhat low move for a reviewer. While any restaurant should be ready for customers when they open, it’s common courtesy in the review world to give a new kitchen a few weeks (or even months) time to work out all the kinks. Cuozzo, however, argues that Gaga’s “hype machine” earned it an instantaneous review.
Gaga’s parents, Joseph and Cynthia Germanotta, hired Art Smith, a tv chef with some serious cooking cred to his name, to helm the kitchen — which apparently was not up to Cuozzo’s standards.
Appetizers took 50 minutes to arrive. Grilled calamari with bitter greens and radicchio were the worst I’ve had in a lifetime of squid-mongering, the salad unseasoned and the calamari like leather.
One-note orecchiette with shellfish recalled the flaccid pasta commonly doled out along Long Island’s Jericho Turnpike — or at 35,000 feet.
Unspeakably fatty veal osso bucco was $38.
And food wasn’t the only problem:
Much of the staff, including the crew toiling in the open kitchen, seemed plucked from the ’burbs. Clueless busboys wandered the floor, performing no other function than to pour tap water into sparkling.
At one point, Smith himself cleared tables, including mine. Poor Smith — another time, he stood before the kitchen counter instructing cooks.
Ouch.
[The Post.]
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http://twitter.com/CrystalHolZam Crystal Holmes
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