Marc Jacobs On Why He Turned Down Dior: ‘Couture Is Archaic’
After months of silence probably imposed by a strongly worded non-disclosure agreement, Marc Jacobs has finally addressed the rumors that he would at some point take over creative direction at the house of Dior. And now that it seems like he’s out of the running for what is arguably fashion’s most coveted job, (thanks, Raf Simons), Jacobs says he’s not all that broken up about the fact that he’s not replacing John Galliano.
In a profile of the designer published in Vogue‘s January issue, writer Jonathan Van Meter talked to Jacobs about everything we’ve been dying to ask him for the past year. What’s his relationship with Lorenzo Martone like? Does he still not talk to his mother? What was the deal with that Richard Prince collaboration? But perhaps the most interesting question he answered was the one about the negotiations with Dior, and where he is with the storied fashion house everyone expected him to flee to:
… Vuitton is probably thrilled that the Dior offer is off the table—for now. “I am at Vuitton, and I am very happy there,” says Jacobs. “I’ve been saying that for a long time. There have been on-and-off conversations about Dior. I don’t know; maybe someday in the future, maybe years from now, I may end up going someplace else, maybe Dior. But right now I am at Vuitton, and all that matters to me is that that’s where I am and I’m going to keep doing my thing.” He pauses for a moment and then, as if he can’t help himself, goes on: “The irony in all of this is that I don’t dream of doing anything else, or I didn’t. My greatest challenge is to do something better than we’ve done the season before. The idea of couture doesn’t hold that thing for me. It’s archaic—in my opinion. I mean, I am really interested in the craftsmanship behind couture. But I can explore all that in ready-to-wear. With couture, one dress each season is photographed by a couple of magazines; there’s no advertising; it reaches 20 customers. I don’t feel there is anything lacking in what we do. I get to work with these amazing craftsmen. Maybe not the same ateliers that would make a couture dress, but, again, we are not in a deficit for working with people who create beautiful things. I am not sure I ever looked at couture as this great opportunity.” With that, he lets out a big laugh, surprising even himself with his candor.
Maybe that’s why he didn’t end up taking the job? Oh well. At least he’s dating a porn star. Take a look at a few photos that go with the story, taken by Annie Leibovitz, below. You can read the entire profile here.