Something tells us the Saint Laurent PR team is busy hiding Hedi Slimane‘s smartphone, laptop, and iPad right now, because Cathy Horyn has weighed in on the house’s divisive fall 2013 collection, and, as we might have predicted, she definitely did not mince words.
Like last season, the New York Times critic was denied an invite to the show, but she, like the rest of us, had full access to the multitude of images online, and critiqued the wares accordingly. The piece, published in today’s paper, was titled “Clothes Worthy of Their Label”, and as you may have already guessed, Horyn does not consider Slimane’s slovenly threads to fall into this category. She begins with a a biting remark about the designer’s decision to excise the “Yves” from the label last season, an action that she says severed “a symbolic connection to the founder, and everything he stood for, like good taste and feminine power.”
This season in particular, however, seems to have gotten people talking about whether the total rupture from the past is a good thing. Horyn clearly does not think that this is the case:
“And the controversy is good for Saint Laurent. But mainly it was clear to me how strong the name is. In terms of design, the clothes held considerably less value than a box of Saint Laurent labels. Without the label attached to them, Mr. Slimane’s grunge dresses wouldn’t attract interest — because they’re not special. But a box of labels is worth a million.”
Finally, she calls out the “lazy values” displayed in the show — which seems to us like the perfect adjective for a lot of flung-over-the-shoulder flannels, torn denim, and Value Village-worthy cardigans (what? Courtney Love said it herself!). But are these fighting words? Only time (and a certain Twitter feed) will tell.