Remember when Andre Leon Talley dramatically pronounced there was “a famine of beauty! A famine of beauty, honey,” in The September Issue? Designer Azzedine Alaïa has the answer why: the intensity of the fashion calendar causes designers to rapidly produce rather than thoughtfully create.
Alaïa told Flaunt magazine:
“There’s a fatigue in fashion, i think. Designer fashion is different now. Designers cannot create so many collections—cruise and pre-fall, accessories—when normally two-a-year is more than sufficient. A designer simply cannot invent something new every two months or so. It takes six months of research and work to build a new silhouette. I work until very late every morning since I do many things by myself. Personally, I know it’s not possible. That’s the reason why fashion today does not change very much. There is no time to think, to invent something new. You can no longer be excited or surprised. Rarely is there any freshness.”
There’s not a lack of talent in the air, Alaïa says, but rather a forced rapidity that causes designers to care more about getting their collections ready for shows than making collections creative and unique.
So is the solution to rid the fashion calendar of pre-fall and resort? Maybe. There was a time when Fall/Winter and Spring/Summer were the seasons to design for. Do Pre-Fall and Resort collections add more stress than value to the fashion industry? I don’t find it that difficult to image a fashion calendar composed only of the two major seasons. And if Azzedine Alaïa thinks it could solve the problem, rid the world of this “famine of beauty” and “fatigue of fashion,” then I’m all for it.