NYFW: Jenny Packham Gives Big Hair, ’70s Edwardian Gowns
We imagine that most were puzzled by Jenny Packham’s show vow to a ”70s take on austere Edwardian attire,” but it made perfect sense to us. After all, as Anglophiles our enthusiasm for blue blood Brits mirrors even that of our keenness to Bianca Jagger in Studio 54′s heyday. But for those less privy to dichotomies, the designer pegged the 1975 Australian cult flick Picnic at Hanging Rock as the catalyst for this season.
The film, set at an Edwardian boarding academy, tells the story of a handful of schoolgirls who end up lost in the Australian bushland. While the period piece is filled with floor-length ruffled and lacey-necked frocks that are devastatingly matronly, Packham’s spring designs were anything but. From the breathable silhouettes to the muted color palette, the looks boasted everything we love about the ’70s, married with the ornamental flourishes of the early 20th century. And as Kate Middleton has reminded us on many a black tie occasion, no one does exquisite frill like Packham.
The show began with roomy separates, including mid-length dresses, pussybow blouses, and high-waist wide leg trousers and skirts (it often being difficult to distinguish between the two). Florence Welch immediately came to mind as someone who would relish the elegant, yet buoyant designs. Naturally, Packham quickly tread into black tie territory with her celebrated column gowns as well as a few sophisticated onesies that resonated with us quite nicely. The gorgeous hues, which were predominantly burgundy, blush pink, powder blue, and chartreuse, became all the more vivid when spangled with her signature shiny embellishments. And yes, as we’re sure all of our seatmates (including one real life Joan Harris *swoon*) did as well, we unabashedly imagined Middleton in every single confection. See the show, below:
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