If at first you don’t succeed, try, try again.
Though his first womenswear collection was universally panned, Kanye West vowed to learn from his mistakes, begging guests at last season’s afterparty to “please give me a chance to grow”. And grow he has. Kanye’s sophomore effort was by no means great, but it did show a marked sense of maturation. Fur, leather, more fur, more leather, some velvet — the editing was tight with only 20 looks in all. More importantly, the clothes fit better and the designs were smarter than the last go-around. The man’s interest clearly lies in accessories, as evidenced by the models’ intense gladiator boots and the return of the fur backpack.
And if show attendee Jay-Z‘s not a businessman but a business, man, Kanye is a showman (or rather a show, man) through and though. He made sure he had the best girls walk down the runway; Anja Rubik opened, Joan Smalls closed, and Karlie Kloss, Jourdan Dunn, Carmen Kass, and Arizona Muse stomped around in the middle. He filled his front row with music’s marquee names — Jay, P. Diddy, Alicia Keys, Azealia Banks — as well as fashion’s elite. Kim Kardashian showed up in Kanye’s $6,000 shoes.
The show’s finale involved a go-kart race, which Eric Wilson reports made Anna Wintour smile. (Wilson got kicked out of the editor preview, by the way.) Wintour sat next to an Ugg-clad Andre Leon Talley, while Anna Dello Russo took a spin in a go-kart during the afterparty.
There was, of course, an air of derivation, though we’ll call it sampling in Kanye’s case. The rapper held his show at the Halle Freyssinet, the same space in which Yeezy hero Alber Elbaz held his Lanvin party earlier in the week. His clothes seemed influenced by Riccardo Tisci‘s work at Givenchy, which isn’t surprising given the two’s creative relationship. Tisci even sat front row to support his friend. The afterparty featured a performance by Banks, who also sang for the fashionable crowd at Karl Lagerfeld‘s house last month.
If anything, Kanye certainly wears his inspiration on his sleeve — and for all of the show’s pyrotechnics, we’re happy this was a more thoughtful collection from a more humbled designer.
this is some kind of spaceship or something.