Photos and commentary are streaming in from Milan Men’s Fashion Week, where houses of all stripes are hard at work presenting their collections for Spring 2011. Perhaps one of the most anticipated presentations was Sarah Burton‘s collection for Alexander McQueen, the first for which she’s standing on her own two feet as creative director. Burton delivered a nimble group of very English clothing that paid much homage to Lee McQueen’s past collections. But while the clothes’ influences can be traced back to McQueen’s history on Saville Row or his photo prints and memorable shows, the shapes were fresh. The pants varied from full trousers to leggings, and many of the longer coats were angled to fall away from the body.
Despite the success, WWD reports the show was mournful. Models left the runway to Edward Elgar’s Pomp and Circumstance, and Burton didn’t take the customary bow at the end of the show.