For his first few womenswear seasons, Ford mounted fancy presentations stuffed with fashion’s elite (and Beyoncé). This go-around he opted to hold small private appointments for editors at his London showroom. We’ve rounded up what everyone had to say about Ford’s work, which can basically be summed up in one word: luxe — $18,000-a-dress luxe.
Jess Cartner-Mortley, The Guardian: “To give you an idea of the clothes: we’re talking lots of skinny tailoring and chubby fur coats, tight leather and sinuous crepe, bags with polished golden hardware and sharp-pointed stiletto boots. Serious glamour, very grown-up. Clothes that are too classy to be pigeonholed in any trend, but which look completely contemporary.”
Lisa Armstrong, The Telegraph: “Ford had his own prowlers — those lithe models who swished round his showroom in knee high boots, some with animal prints, and a succession of ultra luxe beaver and skunk jackets, or curved, waist-cinching alpaca fur coats. Color palette: black, red, and some more black, with a beautiful one-shouldered cream floor-length column with matching cape as the stand-out piece.”
Isabel Wilkinson, The Daily Beast: “The presentation opened with a thigh-length red alpaca fur coat over a black leather pencil skirt and over-the-knee black leather boots with a sharp toe and slender heel. There was a diverse mix of leather and skin – one full-length dress came covered in white feathers on black tulle, and was paired with an anaconda snakeskin shoe and a luscious two-toned skunk fur jacquard. Another body-hugging gold dress consisted of ‘every scale of a snake sewn onto jersey’.”
Dolly Jones, Vogue UK: “Fabulously sexy menswear-for-women (‘When I first started all women kept saying was that they wanted mens’ suits, but the reality is they don’t want menswear – these are boned and padded at the hip and shoulder; they make women look fabulous.”), then gave way to what Ford has called the ‘belle du nuit, rather than belle du jour’ section of black velvet and silk cocktail dresses — bowed at the nape of the neck over bare backs and with subtly raised shoulders in a nod to Forties sirens — and then the Oscar worthy gowns.”
Women’s Wear Daily: “‘Another Russian spy,’ Ford deadpanned, as a model entered his London showroom presentation on pin heels, a crocodile bra peeking out from her slim jersey tube dress. Black leather, glossy satin, and crocodile scales painstakingly embroidered on silk jersey heightened the danger-laced, sexy Bond girl mood. Demonstrative gold wrestling belts were a wink back to his Gucci heydays, as were the the pencil skirts, the jersey dresses snaked with heavy zippers — and statement-making outerwear. Puffer jackets and capes came in glossy beaver fur. Hairy alpaca coats came in a look-at-me shades of tomato red or taxi yellow.”
Harper’s Bazaar UK: “The first thing to say about his AW12 collection is that, any, I repeat any, of this collection will change your life.”
Anthea Simms, Flare: “All we can say is real crocodile jersey (think about it), show-stopping gowns and fun furs. The wardrobe of your dreams. Having the designer himself walk us through their uncompromising collection (whilst kibitzing with the models) was the highlight of the week (year?).”
Joe Zee, Elle: “Tom Ford’s fall collection is as chic as ever. He’s such a class act, and he reinforced my belief in tons of black leather next season.”
Derek Blasberg: “Tom Ford continues to redefine modern luxury. This season’s new riffs? Crocodile leather jersey, snake skin bras and boots made of anacondas. Tom Ford looked in a mirror the entire time he introduced his collection, which was fine since we were all admiring his handsomeness too…”
Bah, this is all such a tease! Do we really have to wait months (and months) to see pictures?!