Anyone who says fashion isn’t keeping up with the interwebs clearly hasn’t run into VFiles. The digicommunity that skewered Hollister and pioneered post-racism definitely isn’t just here for the LOLs, and their relationship with New York Fashion Week is now getting pretty srs indeed.
This September will be the second time they showcase the latest collections from four designers with massive cult appeal but little global name recognition, picking their next season stars solely on the basis of GIFs and lookbooks uploaded to the VFiles website. And if you want to talk about something other than your #OOTD and blisters while you’re standing around shuffling your Fashion GPS tickets, they’re the four names you should know now. Last year’s labels, ASSK, Hyein Seo, and Melitta Baumeister, came off the runway with stockists including Dover Street Market and celebrity clients like Rihanna – fittingly, RiRi’s stylist Mel Ottenberg has his back behind this season, as do Calvin Klein’s Italo Zucchelli and Candy Pratts Price — so it’s fairly safe to say the future’s looking bright (bright like a diamond) (sorry we hate ourselves too.)
Read our review of last season’s show here, and get excited for this new wave:
If you’re the type of girl who lives in all things street-inspired, ZDDZ’s designer Dasha Selyanova is your sartorial spirit animal. Her pieces elevate wearability to its most YAASS form via sculptural silhouettes, buzzy graphic prints, and, lately, some rather slick tailoring, all of it vagely sporty in a way that has nothing to do with yoga pants. Selyanova started out in fine art and graphic design before moving into fashion, her Spring 2015 plays into this through vivid, typography-inspired slogans. St Petersburg-born Selyanova now lives and works in London.
Korean Seung Bok monks and American denim aren’t thinks you’d expect to see shacking up, let alone on a runway, but newbie Parsons graduate Hye Gin Hamm makes it make perfect sense. Her 100% hand washed denim collection draws equal inspiration from her American and Korean backgrounds, and it shits all over the raw Japanese denim craze. Her fabrics are often faded to the point of being almost ombré, while silhouettes are crisp, cool, and confident. Customized accessories, including Nike sneakers with rubber monk soles, top it all off.
Tokyo-based underground artist Detto Kazuma of Japanese menswear label DTTK launched his aggressively youthful line in 2012. The neo-sports aesthetic is something you can buy now and wear well into the 2065 apocalypse, fusing the slouchy and wearable with the armor-inspired. Plasticy caps and harness t-shirts are among this season’s many highlights — as are, literally, the pieces making very bold use of shiny metallics.
There are slogans, and there are tags like ‘No Jobs’ and ‘Nothing Changes’ scrawled contemptuously across jackets in chalk. Moscow-based menswear designer Tigran Avetisyan trades in the latter. A class of 2012 graduate from Central Saint Martins who comes complete with LVMH group backing, Avetisyan’s designs draw on the hardships of Student Lyfe in a way that Chanel’s $3,400 bricolage backpack, uh, didn’t. His Spring 2015 collection is based on his new men’s fragrance, which is itself a mashup of five individual fragrances purchased duty free. Lucky we’ve never been the type of ladies to shop scents (or jackets) by whether they’re found in the “men’s” or “women’s” section.